Showing posts with label Ones To Watch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ones To Watch. Show all posts

Wednesday, 5 October 2016

WearItWednesday THE BIG REVIEW in the ESPspotlight: LONDON FASHION WEEK (Part One)


This was it. This was The Big Leagues.


Three events down, five times out in the last (almost) three years, and I was back inside the hallowed halls of the Freemason's. Doctors told me once that I wasn't going to be well enough to continue my professional activities, and for a while, I almost believed them. But then one day, I decided that I would like to try some things - nothing too extraordinary - just enough to bring me back to present day, and suddenly...look where I am.

Rushing to make my first show on Day 1, which was the Ones To Watch Award winners, selected by Fashion Scout, time was tight as one of my new Carers and I arrived at Waterloo. To be sure that I did not miss the beginning of the show since I would be coming from so far away this time (I lived in South London the last time I attended, nice and accessible), I jumped in a taxi with my new Carer, a young Romanian called Ana who was not only going to her first fashion show, but was joining me for her first day on the job, so I wasn't the only one on an adventure!

Being in a wheelchair now, I didn't know what the building's pre-arrangements for the disabled were, and so I've found the best approach to be pre-warning people that I am coming and that I cannot be alone (people tend to get a tad panicky when they see a tremor attack in action without warning). Having done that with organisers POP PR a few times over, I was surprised when the security staff that I reported to didn't know that I was coming, and thus hadn't allotted a space for me. A somewhat surly man who seemed to think that I turned up willy nilly, was a little brusque with me about finding a spot to put us. Spotting my POP contact, the ever stunning Portia as we were led up the runway, I stopped to butt in and say hello on the way; risking the imminent wrath of the burly older man in the security guard's uniform. After exchanging our greeting, I hurriedly followed the unhappy looking man to the top of the runway, to right where the models would return (to exit).

Nail-bitingly terrified that I was going to be in the way, I asked if he was sure he wanted us there, would I not be blocking the models? The tense guard informed me that had he known that I was coming, he could have found a better place to put me, but no-one had told him. Explaining that I did do my due diligence in advance, Burly's features seemed to soften, and he became a bit kinder before he left us. Afraid the show would start any second, I reminded Ana of what I was going to need her to do as we were doing it. The sweet girl of 24, got me settled and went into my 'Go Bag' to get the camera and everything else I would need for the show. Before I knew it though, Burly was back, and telling us not to get too comfortable, because he was going to move us across the runway.

Now more terrified than ever, I let Ana get into the second row, before I tried to squash my 120kg wheelchair into the tiny, non-existent space at the start of the FROW; bothering some very kind and friendly young ladies, who offered to help (code for: I caused a commotion and brought attention to myself). Naturally, the wheels on my chair got stuck in the space between the wall, a sudden dip in the floor, and the benches. Despite several attempts to manoeuvre myself out of it, it just didn't work. Burly tried pulling on my chair, to no avail, and before you knew it, the lights dimmed, and Burly sped off backstage! Seeing my rigid armrest stick out in the way of the narrow path where I was quite sure each model was going to bang into it and dislocate a hip bone, which would of course poke through their side and get blood all over the super expense ensembles, when I couldn't even afford to arrange a payment plan for a button...


Trying to put my professional face on since Olympic diver Tom Daley was sat directly opposite me with his freshly bleached hair, it was all I could do not to scream as the first model emerged and I pictured her protruding hip bone; add to that the fact that she was wearing pastels, so the blood would definitely stain. And then I took in the designs...Ana Ljubinkovic was up first.

Ana Ljubinkovic


Ana Ljubinkovic
The initial thought that came to mind as I watched the first design take to the runway, was ice cream. I had visions of the unusual pastel creations being worn in a west end parlour chain with five hundred flavours. Later, it would be suggested to me that they could also be pictured as futuristic space uniforms, which I could also totally see. The other thing that I couldn't get over were the shapes; each more unorthodox than the last. Not for the average body type, it was easy to see Ljubinkovic's vision for how the garments would sit on the perfect form; precisely cut and made to stand out. Despite the muted colours and abstract shapes, the uniform collection was a smart, clean-cut one, with wearable separates masked by the avant garde presentation; consisting of tops, skirts, shorts, capri pants and minidresses, the twists came not in the peplum shaped detailing on the sleeves, waists or hips, but in cookie colour cut outs, or wings with exaggerated curves. The sexy air was added by what was taken away. The hint of skin as opposed to the exposed; but make no mistake - each detail was out of this world.

Anissa Aida


Anissa Aida
I would later meet Aida and declare her the winner for the nicest designer personality award. As for her creations however, I would have to declare that they weren't my cup of char. Although a clear winner for being in keeping with the denim trend, what I liked about them - apart from what looked like a great option for my next work bag - was that they reminded me of the Orient. I could see workers in rice paddies wearing these, but they wouldn't be my selection for a day to day wardrobe, barring a few pieces that I could dress up with other options. I don't know whether that was the look that she was going for, having never managed to find an opportunity to corner her and discuss the collection, but that was definitely what I took away from her collection of separates, which were very loose fitting, and androgynous. For those looking for casual comfort, then I would say that this is the collection for you; sleeves were either elbow or cuff length in shirts and dresses that emanate laid-back wear. Asymmetrical lengths were a note of interest, as was the colour scheme of denim blue, light grey and white. I appreciated the thought process, however I just wasn't in love with the results.

Billie Jacobina


Billie Jacobina
Definitely ready to party, Jacobina brought neon and silver to the fore, as we watched a collection consisting of see-through plastic, fur, and what appeared to be scales, in place of skin. There was a definite aquatic theme throughout, as I noticed what appeared to be several Octopi in neon pink and orange, as well as what I think were either algae, jellyfish or even a Portuguese man o' war...? I am always the first to say that you cannot detrite someone's vision, but she even lost me with that one! There were silver sequins on white jersey-like material, which made up leggings underneath wide-leg culottes, and they appeared to be covered in neon-coloured stripes. I applaud the daring, I thought the models with their bare, vaselined faces, white wigs, and 'BEAM' trainers that lit up around the soles with each step, were the most outlandish and visually interesting yet, but I'm afraid that the collection was also not for me.

Ester Kubisz


Ester Kubisz
Rounding things off, Kubisz had the most calm, immediately wearable collection of the four. Unisex in her monotone palette of black, white and grey, the mostly masculine line consisted of jackets, shirts, shorts, and trousers; but it was in the frayed edges where she found her mangled edge. Not particularly mindblowing to me, I found that there was little to make me think about what I was seeing. For all intents and purposes, each of the previous collections had brought ideas of something to mind, and I'm very sad to say that the most this made me think of was Christian Bale in American Psycho - this wardrobe would be perfect for him. I could even see Reese Witherspoon in the female version of the shorts. I don't necessarily know if that's a good thing? Hey, at least that means it's wearable, right? I see these, more than any others, playing out in everyday life - just not mine.

The show now finished, I breathed a sigh of relief that no-one was harmed by my chair, and went back to focusing on getting out of this mini-cavern I had fallen into. Burly returned and, fast becoming my new best friend, began maneuvering my wheels to get me back onto level ground which, to my shock, eventually worked! Thanking him sincerely, he asked me if I was going to be back for any additional shows, and I informed him who I would be seeing later. He offered to arrange a space for me, and dare I say it, I think I left the room (post Tom Daley selfie), with us being firm friends.

To the exhibition hall we headed, so that I could backup my photos on 'The Bayby' (my miniature notebook), but before we could get that far, I marvelled at how things had changed in the past five seasons; no longer a charging station, the cloakroom area had been overtaken by sponsors Crabtree & Evelyn, who set up shop with quite the natural environment for visitors to grab complimentary hand massages, or just sit and relax! I could've keeled over in shock. As I listened to Ana babble infectiously about how amazing her first fashion show was, I couldn't help but smile, until I felt myself get overly emotional. I realised that I was back in the building, and achieved what I thought I never would again. Despite the odds and adversities, I was here; and even if I couldn't make it all the way to my last show of the day, the fact that I had made it this far was enough for me, I could go home disappointed that I hadn't completed the day, but pleased and proud that I had made it over the first hurdle. No-one would ever be able to take that away from me, the victory was all my own.

Deciding to push on, having backed up my photos for safety, and taken my next round of painkillers to target the struggles that I was already feeling, I told Ana that it was time to get ready for the next show. Remembering Burly had told me to be outside the next hall ten minutes early, I suggested that we saw to our needs and got going, so that's what we did. Outside of the gallery even earlier than told, Burly led me through and perched me in a prime spot at the end of the catwalk. "This better for your shots?" He asked, at which I was hardpressed not to plant a wet, sloppy one on his cheek. Since I couldn't reach him, I gave him a good view of my pearly whites instead and, if I'm not mistaken, won him over with my charm. Trying to ease the worsening pain in my legs, I got Ana to take my legs down from the incorrectly placed footplates, which force my legs and hips into an unnatural position, and therefore cause me additional pain on top of the aches and waves that I was feeling, and got as comfortable as they would allow for the show. Before I knew it, the lights went down, and the works of Rocky Star paraded down the catwalk...

Rocky Star

Finally - this was what I came here to see! With every model that approached, the work became more intrinsic, and beautiful. The embroidery and patterns were beautiful, Herculean feats of artistry. The Middle Eastern vibe of the models added cultural depth, and the richness of the silks, satin, chiffon, brocade, patterns, ruching, and ruffles, were absolutely intoxicating. Each design made the wearer look like a Goddess, so deeply textural were the pieces. Honestly, there was not one creation that did not make me marvel in wonder. I loved Star's use of colour - though flesh-toned and darker in some places, all served to add to the wealth of the garment. Models wore slicked back ponytails, with smokey eyes and nude lips, there was an effortless beauty to each, as the clothing did all the work. Where headpieces or statement embellished earrings were worn, they only added to the experience - and that, the showing was. It was far more than just a catwalk; the showing was a journey that Star took his viewers on, and with the degree of beauty that I saw - it's safe to say that the whole affair was a rousing success.



Moving off to the vestibule - the only venue I have ever seen this lady show at, I waited in amused anticipation for Pam Hogg. Always a showstopper, my beloved Portia moved me from where Burly initially put me, guiding me to the end of the catwalk, right by the photographer's pit (my favourite spot); and had me placed perfectly to celebrity-spot. Starting with All Saints alum Melanie Blatt, whose daughter I remember being born, now walking in the show for, I believe, her third season straight, I felt myself age under the burning lights. Of course, the show was running late (as expected), and I discreetly asked a passing Security Guard whether they expect this late start every year, to which I was informed that not only do they expect it, but it's their collective most hated show, every season!

Chuckling to myself, I watched the 'celebs' like TOWIE/MIC regulars, awful excuses for tattooed Rappers, pretty up and coming singers, and the like, have their moments in front of the flashing bulbs. Others hob-nobbed, and I got chatting to my skilled neighbour; a talented artist who would do the most interesting interpretations of the pieces with various sized felt pens, and great big sheets of brown paper. She told me that she misses half of the collection in the time that it takes her to draw but, looking down and seeing the fruits of her labours, I had to say that it was L'Oreal worth it. Chatting to Ana next, and getting to know her a bit better, we were just laughing over a shared joke, when suddenly, the lights went down (early)!

Pam Hogg


As always, some dramatic punk music started, and some models descended in pvc and what appeared to be leather dresses; followed by skin tight shiny one pieces of varied forms, jumpsuits, leotards, and two pieces that involved shorts that let bum flesh hang out. Expecting nothing less, but also knowing that I had seen it all before, I almost started snapping on autopilot, and instead paying more attention to the drawings by my neighbour. Then something extraordinary happened. A wearable piece of art came floating down the runway...non extrovert material, it was a beautiful chiffon playsuit, in a gorgeous coral shade that, if I had the figure, even I would wear - and that's the first time that I have ever thought that about a piece of Pam Hogg couture!

Pam Hogg
Utterly flabbergasted, I looked around to see if anyone else shared my sentiment. Nobody else seemed to, so I simply sat in quiet shock. This was the most eclectic collection that I had ever seen from Hogg, and I wasn't quite sure what to make of it? Entitled 'Great Expectations', I was confused, because if anything, what I was seeing was more Alice In Wonderland, with the peplum upper arm sleeves, and the tulle skirts. There was also lurex and other shiny materials, platform shoes without heels, and a lot of big hair - whether it be by big, bright rolled curls pinned into place, or white afro wigs. There were more sprinklings of the chiffon designs, in the form of a black calf-length dress, with a waist-deep cleavage dip, a soft pink peplum blouse, a white ruched dress, cut with angel wings, and a see-through skirt layer. The patterns are not reminiscent of anything that I recognise, but interesting none the less (for the most part).

Before I knew it, the show was over, and that was the end of my first day at London Fashion Week - but my, what a day it was...


That's all for this week folx, thanks for your patience whilst I battle through this sick phase. Look out for Part Two next week.

Until the next...

ES














Photos courtesy of EricaSharlette for EricaSharlette Promotions Ltd. and POP PR.

Wednesday, 21 September 2016

WearItWednesday ESPnews My LFW SS17 Summary; IJL People's Choice Winner


Take 2 - and once again, I say WHEW, what a WEEK!

Repeating almost everything I wrote before my unruly computer crashed (yes, the Saga continues), I was busy telling you all about my exploits in the second week of the year, when the World's glitterati descend upon London Town...No, I'm not talking about the BAFTAs. Unless you've been living under a rock, then you will have known that England's capital has been under the spell of London Fashion Week Spring Summer 17 - the 2nd most fashionable week in the annual calendar; and despite a conversation two years and three months ago, where I was told after the culmination of thirteen chronic, degenerative illnesses caused both legs to fail and put me in a hospital bed for almost six months in total due to severe weakness and pain; that I would no longer be able to maintain such activities - Yours Truly found herself FROW (Front Row for those not in the know) at every event I attended. I don't wanna blow my own trumpet, but can I get a round of applause, please? Just kidding...a simple comment below will do! :)

Friday

Starting with Ones To Watch; Ana Ljubinkovic, Anissa Aida, Billie Jacobina, and Ester Kubisz showed off the collections that earned them the coveted Fashion Scout title. Followed a little later by the beautiful talents of the unfamiliar Rocky Star who made such luxurious clothing, that I just wanted to roll around in the yards of satin and lace the gifted man used to create his collection.

Ana Ljubinkovic SS17

Rocky Star SS17


From middle-eastern bliss to hometown kitcsh; Pam Hogg's latest collection actually shocked me - find out why in my three-part SS17 series starting October 5th - yes, yes, I know that seems like a long time away, but in reality, it's a teeny weeny fortnight. A) because we have some other business to finish discussing first (Fashion Undressed, anyone?), b) because I need time to arrange the simply divine albums full of pictures that I captured for you; and c) because I have so much to share with you that I couldn't possibly bring you all of it by next week - it's a feat of human impossibility.


Pam Hogg - 'Great Expectations' SS17

Saturday

Day Two began on a sour note - where the exertions of the previous day had begun to catch up with me, I was completely exhausted and in utter pain, causing me to miss the first two shows of the day (Ever so sorry Ollari and Delna Poonawalla), at a Charing Cross hotel. I did however, make it in time for my highlight of the day - Ashley Isham's pool party theme did not disappoint. There was quite a wait after the spectacularity my lovely new Carer Ana and I had just witnessed (even she fell in love with a well-oiled, hunky, blue-eyed specimen); and so I used the opportunity to grab a complimentary hand massage at event sponsor's Crabtree & Evelyn's foliage / chill out zone, before taking in the exhibition.

Ashley Isham Fashion Scout Finale - London Fashion Week SS17 

Once done, it was time for cocktails courtesy of Forward PR and design label prophetik - or so my invitation said, until the very kind Security team who had been looking after  me - escorting me to pre-arranged seating areas, and genuinely becoming friends by the time the five days were over - informed me that actually, I had not been invited. Despite the print on my invitation, I had been misled; I was not invited to the cocktail portion of the evening, as I was missing a sticker. Kind as Security were however, they let Ana and I sneak in one glass of champagne, where I networked, and met a lovely lady designer that I shall be telling you more about at a later time.

Back to the shenanigans however, and after my refreshment I was escorted to the Gallery by my friend Uncle Bob...


Whilst prophetik were still doing their run through, I got to hear the amazing Dorado soundcheck, as some of the models practised their walks. After a wait, and some more socialising, this time with one of the makeup company's sponsors, the show finally began, and we were introduced to designer Jeff Garner's 'Nevermore' collection.

prophetik SS17 'Nevermore' Finale - Fashion Scout

Sunday

Day Three was another tough start. My osteoarthritic hands had swollen exponentially from overuse. But, not to be deterred, I called on my Carer for assistance where need be, and despite missing my first show (my sincerest apologies Apu Jan), I made it to the Cimone show, which was the highlight of my day

Cimone SS17

Back in the exhibition area afterwards, I took the opportunity to talk with some of the Fashion Pioneers. I met the extraordinary designer Luca of Cruz Bueno, who talked me through his Greek mythology-inspired collection of Ready To Wear through to Couture designs. Look out for a special on his collection in the coming weeks.

Cruz Bueno SS17

House of MEA was next, and the sumptuous design collective left me breathless.

Studio H J, House of MEA SS17

As getting to the V&A via public transport in under half an hour would prove an impossible feat in a wheelchair; we decided to take in the Malan Breton show instead, and I'm ever so glad that we did. His collection was full of rigid lines, statement blocks of colour, brocade, and terse dark florals on rough fabrics that didn't soften with the addition of capes and trains. His designs implied they were made for a strong woman, destined to take the world by storm.

Malan Breton Finale - Fashion Scout SS17

Monday

By Day Four, my body had had it, and fought back against all my unauthorised adventures and activities. With the help of my amazing Mother and very sweet Carer, I managed to make it as far as my first mode of travel, before I had to concede defeat and return home to bed. Vin & Omi - I am so very sorry for not being able to attend what I am certain was a fabulous show

Tuesday

I rallied my strength for the final day of London's second most fashionable week of the year, with an industry net worth of £28 billion pounds (Mayor of London). Placed for David Ferriera's 'I Must Be The Reason For Your Erection' (yes, you did read that right); I was pleasantly surprised to find that the show was nothing like what the title suggested - instead it was...well, read all about it in the second instalment of Fashion Week special on October 12th. That wasn't all though - if you head over to the brand spanking new Facebook Page (in desperate need of some likes), you will catch the designer himself explain his theory behind the concept of the collection - don't miss it, he was really very sweet!

David Ferriera, 'I Must Be The Reason For Your Erection' SS17 - Fashion Scout

And there you have it - my summary of my first fashion week back on the circuit. My Jehovah willing, I'll make it back to many more. I hope I did you all proud, don't forget to look out for the reviews in detail on each designer's piece of work, with dedicated photo albums on the Facebook Page mentioned above. Let me know your thoughts on my take on YOUR stage below - I'm waiting to hear from you!

____________________________________________

IJL 2016 announce KickStarter Marina Skia as winner of the People’s Choice Award

Marina Skia has been voted by the industry as the winner of the much coveted, eighth IJL 2016 ‘People’s Choice’ award and will receive a free stand in the IJL Design Gallery in 2017.


Sam Willoughby, Event Director, commented: "Many congratulations to Marina who mounted a very successful social media campaign. A big thank you also to the industry for their considerable support which has helped promote all of this year’s KickStarters. We are all looking forward to seeing their work at IJL2016.”

Marina Skia is currently Artist in Residence at Sir John Cass, London Metropolitan University. She cleverly identified people and organisations with large groups of followers, mainly through Facebook, to engage their support of her campaign. This included several fashion bloggers as well as Cass students, staff and friends on Facebook.


Her strategy paid off and her campaign reach grew thanks to numerous shares, new followers and messages of support from people who voted for her. On being chosen, Marina said: “I am delighted and honoured to win the People’s Choice Award. The competition provided the perfect opportunity to promote my work to a bigger audience and winning it is a great step forward for my brand. I was so surprised by the enthusiasm and support I received during the campaign and am very grateful to all who helped me win the People’s Choice Award.”

Marina draws on the beauty, forms and shapes encountered in Nature. The sea and the motion of water is one of her strongest sources of inspiration. Her work is graphic and characterized by bold geometry, clean lines, and an emphasis on detail. In her brass and silver pieces Marina combines traditional hand making skills she was taught while training as a jeweller in Greece, with contemporary technologies she was introduced to while studying jewellery design in London.


The unique KickStart scheme is run by IJL and supported by the National Association of Jewellers, and is an excellent way for retailers and buyers to discover the talent of the future.

The full line up for KickStart 2016 is Joanna Bury, Emily Richardson (Emily Richardson Jewellery), Emma Calvert, Sammie Jo Coxon (SJC London), Cécile Gilbert, Vicky Lew, Lucas Mitchell (Lucas Alexander), Charlotte Scott Moncrieff (CF Concept), Marina Skia and Jonna Jarvenpaa and  Laura Vilppula (Addalit). For more details, please go to: www.jewellerylondon.com/kickstart


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And that's it for this week! Up next is OnTrends - Enjoy!

Until the next...
ES










Fashion Week photographs courtesy of EricaSharlette for EricaSharlette Promotions Ltd.
People's Choice Award photographs courtesy of Hammond PR.

Monday, 4 November 2013

#ESPspotlight REVIEW: LONDON FASHION WEEK SS14 - DAY ONE: Catwalks, Exhibitions, & Snogs, Oh My!


My mental mindset going into London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2014, was to be a zen-like sponge. Calm amidst chaos; I would be nothing, but take everything in. It took mere moments to achieve my 'sponge'-like plateau literally; as I queued for entry into the grand Freemasons Hall, at the mercy of typical (wet) London weather. Since interesting scenes were forming outside the building however, on this occasion, I didn't mind.

First running into my LFW Fairy Godmother - also known as Felicities PR head honcho, Ali Lowe - the chance meeting gave me a welcome opportunity to thank her for one half of my carte blanche event calendar. As she went off in search of reliable mobile reception; I ran into another familiar face, that of MTV starlet, Little Nikki, who I first encountered headlining Rock The Belles back in January. A quick catch up later, and the only way to prevent the rain from ruining my excitement, was to watch the sights; as many a brightly-attired fashionista, tottered their way to the end of the line. More than the rain however, it was the slow / non-existent pace of the queue 20 minutes after Yeashin's catwalk presentation was scheduled to start, that was getting my goat.


Yeashin catwalk invitation, courtesy of POP PR...

Finally inside, and ushered up to the Hall's Vestibule, the buzz was electric as we waited for the show to start. Starspotting with one eye, and setting up my cameras with the other; I could tell from the staring and whispers that 'Someone' sat in close proximity to my vantage point, but my angle prevented their identification until after the show had finished - but more about her later...

The lights went down, the audience hushed, and the collective anticipation became electrified, as the first model passed through the historic, wrought iron gates...

Yeashin's colour palette centered around pastels. The main material of choice was satin, and the embellishments mostly consisted of pleats, petals and pearls. Each model's uniform began either with bone straight tresses, adorned with a thin, simple braid crown; or sailor-style, white hats which, for reasons I've yet to put my finger on, brought visions of a young Jackie Kennedy to mind. Girly chiffon and ribbons aside; all ended with beige, pointy courts topped with a single large pearl at the toe. The collection had a flirty, 'living doll' type of feel overall, dated in the simple lines and shapes of the 60s. Skating far too close to the border of boring, it was the minutiae of detail that brought the works back from the edge. The saving grace was Sass, and minutiae was where it was hidden. The length celebrated Mary Quant, while ruffles - not an invention I can usually stand - and thin brown (leather?) strips that ran the length, or width of some garments added a nice touch of bad to the good girl ensemble.

Though not really to my personal taste, one Lianne Le Havas - my earlier-mentioned, seated neighbour - was completely taken with everything the line had to offer. Welcoming and approachableMs Le Havas had these choice things to say, when I questioned her about the show:

ES: "I heard you describe the Yeashin collection as "Pretty, Lovely, and Playful". Would you say that's the kind of thing that best suits your style? How would you best describe what you're looking for throughout Fashion Week?"


LLH: "I'm always looking for stuff that I consider to be innovative. And I think that's what London Fashion Week is about; in that way, it makes it the most creative and anticipated. Watching that show, I felt exactly that sense, I got exactly that from it. It's interesting textures mixed with other textures that you wouldn't expect. I loved the collars with the stuck on leaves - they were really, really cute; and I loved the styling as well. The girls looked really pretty, and really feminine. I think femininity, and celebrating the female form, is what I personally look for at Fashion Week; but I love when they use textures as well."

Dedicated to decadence in all its forms, seemingly every alcove within the beautiful structure placed singular works of upcoming talent in the spotlight; ahead of their full collection debuts in the Graduate Showcase scheduled two days later...

Back in the refined foyer, I was far from keen to return to the outdoor queue as security were strongly coercing me to do, when the deluge that I escaped earlier, had gone up a good 12 notches in under 30 minutes. Rebelling against 'The Man' and his nonsensical rules (why would I exit the building, only to rejoin the queue for re-entry, when I've already produced my tickets for two later shows? Silly rules have to be ignored - sorry!) I instead chose to focus on the buzz of activity in a part of the building I had not ventured into before. Passing through the dark and heavy, wooden double doors, decorated with stained glass; I was immediately greeted by one of several handsome representatives, physically perfect for Louis Walsh's next manufactured vanilla boyband, modelling azure-blue tee-shirts, boldly emblazoned with the slogan: 'Fancy a SNOG?'  in an 'innocent' white script. Laden with waiter-style, circular silver serving trays, filled with miniature cups of vanilla, cherry, or chocolate frozen yogurt, capped with raspberries, blueberries, and broad, cheeky smiles; it seemed wholly rude to reply with anything short of: 'Don't mind if I do!'




Tangy refreshments indulged, it took a matter of moments for me to register my surroundings and The International Showcase Exhibition, celebrating Fashion Scout's 'Ones To Watch'. Helen Lawrence, Hannah Williams, and Renli Su dressed one side of the room, opposite Merit Award Winner, Yulia Kondranina, and Copenhagen-based International fashion label, MUUSE on the other. Festive sounds were provided courtesy of co-sponsors Nude Audio, whilst free makeup makeovers were provided courtesy of The Body Shop's new 'Colour Me Crush' range, who also made good use of their sponsorship placement.

Were I thin-skinned, I would've taken offence that this
was the only occasion ALL day when the 'Magic Mirror' failed...
The premise of the 'Magic Mirror', was to tweet the colour of your wardrobe, to receive reply with the colour makeup guides that you should be wearing to match. Never one to pass up the magical wonders of a brush palette, I decided it would be irresponsible of me not to test drive the special social media booth for you all, and so here is Yours Truly, giving the interactive mirror a whirl between shows...

The earlier-mentioned Fashion Scout 'Ones To Watch' were a brilliant trifecta in diversity of styles. As hard as I tried to find a hook that would allow me to identify with the works of Renli Su, I could really only appreciate the collection for what it was - whether it be the confines of theatre, or a 'cotton field chic' catwalk, was really the dealer's choice. Hannah Williams was really more for the upmarket clientele. The gray, rubber-like finish of her handbag and coat centrepiece drew the intended attention. The simple detailing of her embedded logo added an elegance that I'm sure will land her in upscale boutiques in no time. It was Helen Lawrence however, who commanded most of my attention. Youth, vitality, and futuristic edge coursed through her entire body of work. From the plastic skirts - the inspiration for which came about completely by chance whilst crafting her garment structures - to her innovative use of contrasting colours and materials, Lawrence somehow managed to create a happy crossroads between 1984 and 2084, that landed us squarely in the here and now.


Renli Su
Hannah Williams

















Helen Lawrence
Yulia Kondranina changed my intentions of attending her show, with one look at her 2012 collection. Her floor-length tassel dresses and blazers were hypnotic from the moment I laid eyes on them. With attention-grabbing shapes that had you performing 'Proud Mary' on the spotlight stage of your mind, it came as no surprise when the designer explained the story behind a little red dress that had Rita Ora's stylist adhering to that old 'You break it, you buy it' adage, after her Glastonbury performance earlier this year...The biggest shocker of all however, came when Miss K talked me through the mechanics of the presentation that won her this year's Merit Award. It wasn't the intricacies involved in creating these new knitted and crochet designs, with contrasting textures and textures that floored me, but the fact that she'd seen enough tassels to last her a lifetime, so much so, that she would only design new pieces on private commission...I mean, sick of tassels? Can you imagine?


Rita Ora - Glastonbury 2013
Yulia Kondranina 2012



















The collective works of the many talents that under the MUUSE banner, were definitely worth the stop. Global brands aside - it naively never occurred to me, that London Fashion Week focused so heavily on anything other than British designers; so seeing the ideas that came from creatives taking their work to an entirely different cultural stage was an awakening in, and of, itself. The many points to note about this jacket from the 'Contemporary White' collection by Eun-Jung Lee for instance - an absolute masterpiece in my eyes - were just one of the things that piqued my interest...


'Contemporary White' by Eun-Jung Lee
MUUSE Magazine Online Archive 

The works of Bernard Chandran on the catwalk were next, and I have to say they were the first to take my breath away from this new season (Kondraninaian tassels notwithstanding). Dependent upon the level of brazen on your wardrobe's audacious scale, his sexy selection would either transform you into a whirl of colour on a blank canvas, or a shiny, unwrapped Christmas cracker - think fun, flirty, and girly Gucci, meets the prosaic, pseudo-sheen of Primark, both happily co-existing on a fashion rail. Unwrapped presents aside; from the sheath cuts to the pleating, to the jewel embellished straps, to the playful, yet elegant jumpsuits and marvelous red maxi dress - the entire collection was practically WGSN trendcast verbatim, which made me awfully glad that I paid close attention to the fashion tarot of Lorna Hill...












The only detail that I couldn't thank the global organisation for teaching me ahead of time, was how to pinpoint one specific era of influence, when it borrowed from the best of so many. Eventually I had to surrender to the idea that Bernard Chandran's SS14 collection was a celebration of fashion throughout the ages.

Model uniforms this time consisted of simple, pale skin and eyes so as not to overshadow, or clash with the clothing, topped off with a bold red, lo-shine lip, for a kiss of chic. Loose, borderline messy single ponytails kept hair subtly framing faces; some crowned with unconventional tiaras, headchains and headphone accessories - complete with iPod, whilst others sported nothing at all, just to keep up the variety. Toes really did twinkle, in sandals and slingbacks of assorted heel heights. The 2-3 inchers dazzled in their own right, but the flats were where my bubble burst. Jelly shoes are as much of an insult to fashion, as Jedward is to music - and yet that's exactly what they were reminiscent of. Thankfully, the strength of the new line as a whole, was strong enough to overlook the horrible similarity.

Tassel Queen Yulia Kondranina was the final catwalk of Day One. After the excitement of the day's earlier discovery, I was eager to get a good look at the next step in her creative evolution. Keen to explore an avenue as far from the festive fringes of her previous line as possible, the Aztec knit and crochet patterns in varied, contrasting colours successfully achieved her goal of distinction - although it was unfortunately not in a way that was remarkable enough to compare, in my humble opinion. Barely there makeup and slicked back, loose tendrils gave hair a 'wetlook' effect; most of the models stayed on their low-heeled, slip-on sandals, thus capping the final uniform look of the day.



It wasn't until I exited the building into the still pouring rain, that my adrenalin rush began a steady descent, and I realised the full capacity of the Fashion Week bubble. Though darkness now surrounded, inside and out, I finally recognised the mystical powers of Freemasons Hall, and all that was contained within it. No mood enhancements needed, the high from Day One was enough to carry me back to my front door, ready to refuel, and do it all again after some much needed sleep...

Stay Tuned for Day Two but in the meantime, catch up with the day in pictures on the ESP Facebook Page!
ES ;)