London Fashion Week SS15 is almost over but for Yours Truly, the catwalk withdrawal has barely begun to set in. Still under the throes of a chronic illness, I am too unwell to attend this year; but I thought what better way to counteract the withdrawal, than by telling you exactly what I was up to, during SS14?
Now if you were on the London roads on the Sunday afternoon that was the third rainy day of the SS14 season, and you saw a blur whizz by, then it's highly likely that you encountered Yours Truly. My own personal Krypton Factor (80s to early 90s UK babies will know to what I refer); the ESP calendar included stops at Felicities Press & PR Day, their subsequent #Me@MELondon designer exhibition, Vita Gottlieb's 'Sendu Bala' presentation, and the RE:PRESENT Showroom Launch Party.
Now if you were on the London roads on the Sunday afternoon that was the third rainy day of the SS14 season, and you saw a blur whizz by, then it's highly likely that you encountered Yours Truly. My own personal Krypton Factor (80s to early 90s UK babies will know to what I refer); the ESP calendar included stops at Felicities Press & PR Day, their subsequent #Me@MELondon designer exhibition, Vita Gottlieb's 'Sendu Bala' presentation, and the RE:PRESENT Showroom Launch Party.
Aware of the 'cleverly' planned transport closures and detours during one of London's biggest weeks of the year (good one Boris), my Sunday service route had been pre-planned to a T - or so I thought. Ongoing works at London Victoria (set to end in 2016, would you believe) - one of our capital's biggest travel hubs, meant that not only was the majority of the station closed, but staff had absolutely no idea where certain bus route starting points had been moved to - mine in particular. Sent to 4 different parts of a station far too massive for this much ridiculousness, I finally found the stop (the I was originally sent to), on a one way street. Still smiling inwardly, certain that here was where my woes would end, I boarded what would be considered a time machine, long before I disembarked. You see I was advised by my driver that it would be a 20-minute journey to the luxurious Waldorf Hilton Hotel - give or take some minutes, due to the extremely heavy traffic in Central London that afternoon. When almost an hour had passed, and I caught sight of a sign informing me that I was now entering World's End - no, that is not a funny euphemism, such a place does, in fact exist, in West London - I realised that detour signs or not, I was most definitely not going in the right direction...Querying my current predicament with the driver did one of us some good - it reminded him to change the destination sign on the front of the bus (when asked why he did not inform me that I was on the wrong bus when I spoke with him at the start, he simply replied that he thought I was "just asking"...). One good turn spurred another however, and the kind, but misguided man pointed me in the direction for where I needed to go...
Almost two hours later, dripping like the drowned rat I was, having travelled in worsening rain showers for over three and a half hours in total; I entered the swanky hotel, praying to the Big Man atop those hallowed stairs, that security wouldn't refuse me entry in my current water-logged state. Thankfully, I caught sight of a big, bright welcoming smile, and squelched over toward the Felicities welcome wagon, on-hand to direct guests to their suite for the day. The one thing that I can promise about Felicities staff, above all other PR firms that I have written for - is that they are always the friendliest, most welcoming bunch. From emails to events, you always feel as though you are running into old friends - whether you've met some of the staff before or not.
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| Gin cocktails courtesy of Ish Gin, and Felicities PR |
On entering, my soaking coat and brolly were immediately swapped for a cold cocktail, courtesy of Ish gin, and the liquid sponsor's bartender for the day. Once I was mostly dried out, I made my rounds, taking in the displays for the reason that we were all there - to get an up close and personal look at sample works from the agency's client list, whilst we recharged, physically, and electronically, and even use the PCs provided to upload work directly.
A huge fan of the jewellery works by Imogen Belfield, Gia Beloni and Milena Kovanovic; the relaxed environment gave me ample opportunity to examine their works up close. One of the names that I was most anxious to see throughout the entire LFW period - Ms. Belfield most certainly did not disappoint. There is a rawness to her designs that are at once striking, because they shy so far away from the 'sweet and pretty' perceptions of women's jewellery. Her mainly gold pieces are hard, rugged, and immediately warn you, that the wearer is no wallflower. Their beauty is in standing firmly opposed to subtlety and softness, demanding confidence and tough attitude from the wearer at the same time; and therein lies the main appeal. Her placement next to the soft, regal romanticism of Julia Burness' pieces which, although similar in size, managed to stand strong as the antithesis of Belfield's modern armour - only served to accentuate the power on both sides of the coin. The draw of Beloni and Kovanovic's creations however, was the same. Both carried notions of ancient times, though from entirely different periods. Whilst the former had you thinking of Maid Marian, knights, roundtables and medieval ages; the latter instantly made you want to don hoop skirts, white wigs, add a beauty spot, and offer a lot of hungry folk some cake. In French. With a fan.
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| Beautiful Rings courtesy of Milena Kovanovic |
It took quite some will power to tear myself away, and give the dresses by Shanti Sundays and BasharatyanV, and headwear by Little Shilpa the attention they rightly deserved. The airy playfulness of Sundays' sundress made you forget the early Winter, and daydream of strawberries at Spring picnics in the nearest park; that is, until you caught sight of the now blustery rain showers through the window. Leave it to the avant-garde headpieces by Little Shilpa then, to wrench you right back out of that horrible little thing called reality. Colourful, confusing, and instantly appealing; the unusualness of each concept earned a spot on the list of 'One to Explore', long before I was through taking in the artful display. Paola Balzano's beautiful satin dresses with bold oriental patterns and eye-catching uses of ruching and drapery brought me full circle, at which point I graciously thanked my kind host, and dashed across the road to take in the #ME@MELondon exhibition.
Entering the 5* luxury hotel was nothing like any of the other establishments I've visited of the same rank. The juxtaposition of light versus dark in the hushed foyer that resembled something out of the space ages, only stayed my attention momentarily, until I caught sight of the breathtaking works of the Felicities roster lining the wall, and displayed on mannequins opposite. Based on their SS14 collections, these literal works of art had been turned into graphic prints, and exaggerated display pieces for this unique exhibition. Just when you thought you had the premise pegged as repeated colourful sketches from BasharatyanV, David Longshaw and more; extremely cool dress displays like the whirl of colour from Ada Zanditon and lighting tricks from phannatiq, Beautiful Soul changed the scope by bringing a real-life garden scene to the party, complete with adorable bird tree! But that was not where it all ended...
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| Felicities Presents...#ME@ME London (First Floor) |
A hostess appeared from behind a bar that had been obscured from view by the outer alcove, and offered me a well-needed glass of champers which, although messing with my tightly timed plans, gave me an opportunity to take in my surroundings in awesome detail. Exaggerated versions of the artwork stood lifelike against the walls, and found prominence atop staged plateaus. Striking backdrops in all four corners - not to mention the open pyramid of a ceiling, it was impossible not to get caught up in the opulent moment each piece of art contributed to...
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| Rings by Cardinal of London |
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| Ring by Linnie McLarty |
The alarm button on my phone dragged my attention back from the place I had hoped that time forgot (despite having pressed the snooze button five times, so that I could take in more of the beauty that surrounded me). With a forlorn sigh, I marched my feet in the direction of my belongings, internally miserable, until I remembered where I was headed next...to hopefully make the last half-hour of the presentation by a talent who had left an almost disciple-like impression on me during the AW13 season - Miss Vita Gottlieb. As I broke (personal) speed records to get from the Strand in Central London to the outskirts of my old hometown - Hackney, in East, the now monsoon showers made me wish I'd chosen a pale makeup palette, instead of the clownesque display that I was surely now sporting. I left it to the last bus to shape into something inline with the edge of a bravely experimental fashion maven. My clothes on the other hand, I could do nothing about. Sometimes dishevelled is as dishevelled does; and you can either cower in shame, or strut in shameless full knowledge. I chose the latter...until the building receptionist's arched eyebrow made me cringe all over again.
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| The stunning SS14 works of Vita Gottlieb |
With only eight minutes to spare by the time I arrived at Netil House, I found the presentation had actually concluded and packed up; but the very lovely, and cool Vita (whom I would displace my current best friend to make room for, she's that cool), allowed me five of those final minutes to photograph some key pieces from her fully packed racks - just for your viewing pleasure...
A vast departure from her AW13 production, 'Sendu Bala' allowed for a freeness with the green palette that she worked to perfection. The drama was all in the detail; from the texture, to the seductive eyecatchers, whether they be ruffles, zips, pattern or layering. I especially love how she takes all of the above, and still manages to fit them into sexy, attractive clothing that hearkens back to times past, whether it be centuries or modern, decisive eras (think Coco and Jackie). My saddest moment of the day was leaving that collection behind, but I'm sorely looking forward to AW15 chappies...
Back on the street less than five minutes later, I was headed to my final stop of the day, the Swedish conglomerate Re:Present's launch party at the Institute of Contemporary Arts. Nine designers opened the Western European showcase, with six household and personal care sponsors. One of my favourite discoveries of the night, the PeoplePeople transparent speakers are just what a girl like me needs for her music-loving endeavours, doncha know. Cool, clear, and crisp sound, with a bass capacity so atrocious, it's insulting...
Moving into the first of two rooms, I began taking in the sights, and Rodebjer's design house was up first. Not quite sure to begin with, it took a minute to find my inner fan, and fall in like with the soft, homey, cornflower blue. Overall, the loose-fitting, drapery and layering felt aimed at a target market I have yet to grow into. Barring one fairly interesting pair of shoes that I couldn't quite make up my mind on, I felt confident in understanding what Ms Rodebjer's clothing was trying to say, and the realisation that I was not who she was trying to say it to...
Dagmar were next, and I breathed a sigh of relief at the translation I understood, word for word. A mature kind of sexy, this label's pieces used mesh, elastane and cotton as the backdrop for designs geared to demand your attention. Even their maxi dresses suggested the sensual silhouettes of their wearers. Altewaisaome continued in the relay where Dagmar left off. Proving sophistication can still be sexy; the design duo of Natalia Altewai, and Randa Saome found fascinating uses for leather, satin and wool, that made you glad to be a lady. Not to be misled by the name, minimarket was most definitely a cut above your average market stall. Bright colours, modern materials, and figure-hugging cuts made their designated area a heavy traffic stop. They had many points of interest, but their two-tone blue, latex-like minidress was a firm favourite with me...
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| Urban, super-stylish minimarket SS14 |
Grabbing refreshment from one of the many bowls of sweets provided - which I assumed was a Swedish thing, since none of the packets were in English - I made my way to the second room, where the DJ was doing a darn good job inspiring the party atmosphere that the other, quieter, talking space was missing. Now almost empty, I found myself in the vicinity of where the real refreshments once were, judging by the near empty platters. They just so happened to be surrounded by the infinitely more appealing handbags from Palmgrens next collection.
Of the leather and wicker persuasion, the tote bags and wallets came in the select options of dusky pink, beige, brown and black. Equally select in it's colour palette, though for very different reasons, neighbours Ma Ska offered an unexciting collection that wouldn't be out of place on a home shopping channel - 'Ma' really was the word where, if prefaced by 'Grand' wouldn't have been out of place...
Who better to bring youth back than jewellery designer Cornelia Webb then, with her collection that began with beauty, and ended in kink. Her neighbour reminded me of the early days of Moschino, where the brand were so desperate for you not to forget their name, that they tackily emblazoned it across their clothing, masquerading as a print. Thankfully, the clothing by BACK was interesting enough to overcome this flaw, and be graded on its own merit. Almost attempting to reinvent the way that we physically dress, there were a selection of pieces that made you think differently about the construction of clothes, and therein lay their angle. Yes, they had muted sexy and comfortable clothing in leathers, cottons and strange, reflective materials, as well as statement pieces in organza; but it was the ones that took on the normal, acceptable process of dressing that stopped you in your tracks. Think trousers with no waistline, held up by high, elastane strips. Jumpers that change shape, dependent upon a sticky strip, and you'll get what I mean!
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| Cornelia Webb supplies the means for you to 'get your naughty on' |
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| ...whilst BACK reinvent how we dress. |
Slightly more grown up and less attention seeking; Carin Wester's designs were attractive, feminine, and sweetly understated. Achieved through cotton, linen, faux suede, and more, Wester really hit the mark on the contemporary market for a classier young lady. Her ringed dresses were definitely a winner with me! The last port on the call, Stylein were more grandiose than all the labels before it, purely for the range in the attire available. From casual wool jumpers to the most exquisite sheer, hand-beaded evening gowns I think I have ever seen, I was glad to have closed the exhibition with such a big finish!
Business complete, I celebrated with a mingle or two with some fashion faces on 'the circuit' for a few moments, before recognising that it was officially way past my bedtime, and so I bid all my goodbyes, so that I could go home and faceplant, getting my rest for my first show of Day Four, now a matter of hours away...
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| Proof I made it through the day, with a fellow blogger in the same predicament! |
ES ;)
As always, there is a cracking great photo album of the day, shot entirely by Yours Truly. capturing all of the above and more, in the usual place - the ESP Facebook Page, where I would appreciate your nice, constructive comments, likes and shares!
